How I did this head wrap with a pompadour is what I show you in the video. Please thumbs up the video and subscribe to my channel. Thanking you for watching. Blessings
Blessings to you and yours!
When I can, when time allows me, I avail myself to training people especially stylists in salons how to take care of natural kinky hair. Recently, my hosts were Pako Styles owned by Pat. You see, our stylists have been trained to work with straight hair. Either they relax it, perm it or heat straighten it just to work on it. We can’t blame them for this for indeed that has been the trend for many years. We would particularly visit the salon for such services and so the training schools would formulate the syllabus to meet the demand. But now, things are changing and my hosts noticed this in their patrons and decided to equip their stylists with the theoretical and practical knowledge on how to continue taking care of their clientele who were now going natural.
The training was in two parts. Firstly it was the theory for about an hour and then the rest of the day was spent on the practical part of the training. From washing hair, trimming ends, doing cornrows on hair that has not been stretched in any way, doing Bantu knots which I learnt are also called Zulu knots, a wash and go on 4 c hair which unfortunately I discovered I do not a photo when I wrote this post, and all that good stuff that we do to kinky hair, making sure breakage is minimized as much as possible. I used Natural Moisture products throughout the training except for the conditioner and in instances where the desired style needed gel.
While I was there, one of the patrons of the salon, who had come for her relaxer asked me to do an in-plait on her hair. Some of the ladies were also asking if I was going to be a regular, at least once a month to cater for their natural hair needs to which I pointed out the reason for training the resident stylists so that they too will be able to take care of natural hair.
On this day, mine was a day well spent although my feet were aching like no one’s business. I have a desk job so standing all day was hectic for me. I suppose as one works standing more, the feet get used to it. It was really nice though working in a well equipped salon like Pako Style and the ladies were so nice to work with as well. I enjoyed it. Will definitely do it again, soon.
Would you be interested in attending the next Kinky Hair Care Training? Follow me on Twitter or sign up to our newsletter so you will be able to get the details in real time. You can also contact me if you would like me to come to your salon.
If you want to visit Pako Styles hair salon they are at 27 Coubrough Rd, Noordwyk, Midrand | Tel: +2711 074 6263 | Mobile: +2782 921 7325 |
African threading on natural hair: Stretching natural hair
Kinky hair is particularly difficult to work with and often requires a lot of patience because it tends to tangle easily especially when not stretched. So if I need someone to work on my hair, I normally prefer pre-stretching it to keep all the drama and pain at bay. In the video below, I show you how I stretch my hair using mangongo, mabhanzi or amapondo, commonly known as African threading.
Please watch the video to see how I do it. One thing I need to mention though is that yarn is quite drying to the hair. I therefore coat the yarn with Shea butter to combat the dryness that it may cause to my hair. Any oil or butter will do though. I also try and take the threading out before my hair is completely dry so that my hair isn’t too dry and brittle when combing out. If going for straight hair, I will re-thread it after detangling and combing through. I will keep this second threading until my hair is completely dry. If just stretching my hair, I will bun it and wait for the time to put my hair in the desired style. I hope the video is clear enough. Let me know what you think.
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Blessings!
Kinky Twists
Extensions can be a part of a healthy hair journey if done properly. We are right in the middle of winter and kinky hair is particularly at risk from the dry weather and not to mention the dry indoors from heaters and so forth. Protecting our hair by covering it all up and making sure the morning routine is as short as possible drives most naturals to opt for a protective style of some sort. If you are opting for braids or twists with extensions, here are all the steps you need to take to do it well and make sure you do not damage your hair.
- Wash and condition hair well: It is very important to have braids or twists done on very clean hair, free from product build up. It will also be good to do a protein treatment to make sure your hair is strong enough the whole duration of the style since it may not be ideal to do a protein treatment with extensions in your hair.
- Good technic: Make sure the technic being used to braid or twist your hair does not cause excessive pulling on your hair as this may put your hair follicles at risk of damage. Even when the braiding is finished, you should not feel any pain at all from the installation. If there is any pain, then your follicles are under pressure and they may end up being inflamed and end up damaged leading to traction alopecia. Your actual hair is more important than a temporary hairstyle. Make sure you take that into consideration.
braids with extensions hairstyle source: worldhairextensions.com
- Braid style selection: We cannot all get giant braids all the way to the hip without causing damage to the follicles. Some people have very thin hair and heavy extensions will weigh on the actual hair, causing a pulling action on the strands. So the extension-hair ratio should be considered when choosing a hairstyle. This does not matter if you are going to have them very thin or thick. As long as the ratio is not right, the damage risk is still present. As much as micro braids have spelt disaster on many a hairline, thick long braids may also give you more than you asked for. Bald patches.
- Styling: How you style your braids or twists will also play a pivotal role on the success of your hair. As much as we want to look sleek and so groomed, care must be taken that you do not make your styles too tight to the extent of you going out with squint eyes, an instant face lift and feeling the style throughout the day. That is not necessary considering the damage that tight style may cause to your hair. There are so many elegant styles out there. You will surely find one that is flattering enough to your face and agrees with your personality.
Twists with extensions. source: www.glamazini.com
- Care of the hair: Although the hair is hidden, you still need to meet its moisture needs. So moisture is still queen. Make sure the scalp is clean and the hair is moisturised enough if you still want to keep hair on your head when you remove the extensions. Wash hair while in extensions and spray it with a water based moisturizer or spritzer as often as you may need to.
- Removal of the braids: it is important not to stay with extensions for too long. Six to eight weeks should be fine. More than that may cause hair to mat and lock. Make sure the extensions are removed gently and after the extensions are removed successfully, finger detangle your hair before introducing a comb to it. This will help you to clump of dust, lint, and product up at the base of each section. Finger detangling will also help you to remove all the shed hairs during the time your hair was in extensions with less pain and breakage.
jumbo braids with extensions. www.myblackhair.nl
- Wash your hair and deep condition so that your hair is well nourished and happy. After eight weeks, your hair may be due for another protein treatment, so go ahead and do it. Make sure you let your hair and scalp rest for at least a week if you want to put it back in extensions. Enjoy the length you have attained and let your hair sunbath in the African sun. Not too much though as the sun is not too good to our kinks as well.
Braid and twist extensions are really pretty but when done wrong, they may be a deal breaker.
Are you in Durban, KZN? Make sure to buy your ticket for the upcoming natural hair event happening on the 1st of August.
(Part of the content of this post first appeared on Beauty Bulletin written by Ruth Mafupa)
Serena Williams. Picture from www.dailymail.co.uk/
Really? Tell me you can do better than that. No. Seriously, you really can do better than that. Please don’t tell me you want to look presentable or beautiful. Who has been lying to you? Who has been telling you all that nonsense that you are not presentable without a weave or some sort of hair extensions? In this day and age? You still believe that rubbish? Come on! Really?
I just don’t understand women who are so stuck in hair extensions and no matter how much you try to assure them that they really would be just as beautiful if not more beautiful with their natural hair, they just seem not to get there. And in most cases, the hairline is so gone and they are looking for miracle product that will grow their hair back. No miracle product is out there that will sort you out before you stop doing what caused the traction alopecia in the first place. Hair growth aids will only work after you stop the pulling damage. Now don’t get me wrong. I have nothing against hair extensions. Whether you want to go the human hair route or synthetic hair, I really do not care. I believe hair extensions have a part to play in many healthy hair routines and I personally do use extensions from time to time. What I care about is a woman being so imprisoned by hair extensions that they behave like a chain smoker. In this case a chain weaver. They cannot even imagine themselves without fake hair. It’s more like substance abuse where you know the consequences of chronic weaving but you simply do not have the power within you to stop the cycle. Come on! Really?
When people ask me what product they can use to grow back their hairline, my first question is, “What caused your hairline to start receding?” My advice is always, “Stop pulling your hair all the time and wear your hair out more to give it a break and time to breathe. Chronic hair extensions cause more harm than good especially when not done correctly.”
Traction Alopcia pic source www.beautifulkinks.blogspot.com/
I seriously think that is when self acceptance and embracing oneself comes in and unless that has been resolved, that weave ain’t going nowhere babe. Those hair extensions are will always be a part of you. You are stuck in that bondage. Get over the argument that it is not self hate. If you cannot stand your natural hair, call it whatever you like but deep inside, you know where you stand. And for us black Africans, hair is not just hair. It is political, cultural and part of our history. I am not trying to tell you what to do with your hair but I just want to give you a little shake and wake you up so you can smell the coffee.
traction alopecia. pic source www.thelastylist.wordpress.com
A friend once said, and I think she also heard it from somewhere, “you have fake hair, fake nails, fake facial complexion, a fake husband should also do” And another friend who has natural hair but vows not to be seen without foundation and all the make up her face can take, said her husband said, women are so fake these days. You never know her actual hair, the color of her lips, her actual complexion and many other things until you marry her and see her without all the make up and the fake things she heaps on herself. Come on! If the fake hair is just part of protective styling, at some point, your man should have seen your actual hair. Unless of course you are not so confident that you are beautiful in your own skin, your own hair and all.
Serena Williams. Picture from www.dailymail.co.uk/
Are you addicted weaving or hair extensions and not sure what to do and I know just ranting at you will not help you much except wake you up so you can see the multiple options you have with natural hair. The first step to wearing more of your hair and leaving hair extensions as a form of protective styling only is to get used to you with your hair and then take her for a walk in your neighborhood, to the shops, to church, to work and soon you will be able to take her anywhere without even thinking about it. Discover yourself and take time to embrace the person you really are. Become comfortable in your skin and live life as you.
I know this is a sensitive issue but I just felt led to get it out. Now I’m at peace with myself.
What do you think, should a woman strive for beauty no matter the damage?
My answer is YES and NO. Confusing right? Well, let me explain. Protective styling is two fold and it also depends on the condition of the hair, lifestyle and the climate you are in. As the term implies, protective styling entails protecting the hair from the weather elements and if you are like me who has a serious “Hand in Hair syndrome” it includes protecting from the constant manipulation as well. As much as some naturals vow that they do not need protective styling to grow their hair long and healthy, for others, it is a real deal breaker and for most, only when they incorporate some form of protective styling do they achieve thicker and healthier hair that has great moisture and length retention.
Protective styles can be classified into two categories. There are what we call short term protective styles which one can wear for a day or two to a week and the commonly referred to protective styling that can be worn for more than a week to even four months for some which is the long term protective styling.
A short term protective style on natural hair
Low manipulation hairstyle with ends not hidden on natural hair
Examples of short term protective styling are;
- Bunning
- Pinned updo,
- French braid
- Fishtail braid
- African threading
- Wash n go
- Twist out or braid out
- Sleeked bun with gel
- Chunky twists/braids
- Head scarf/wrap
- Beanies/hats
The list is quite long and one can be as creative as much as they want with protecting their ends from damage by tucking and hiding them away or wearing the hair loose but leaving it alone (read, low manipulation.) With these hairstyles, one can use hair extensions or just use their own hair depending on the length of their actual hair and the desired look.
Long term protective style on natural hair with hair extensions
Combination of hidden ends and low manipulation protective style on natural hair
Examples of long term protective styles are;
- dread locks
- Box braids
- Twists
- African Threading
- Weaves
- Wigs
- Cornrows
With these, you are in it for a longer term, be it protecting the ends only or low manipulation but usually both since you manage to leave the hair alone for a longer period of time while the ends are tucked away. Hair extensions can also be used with these styles and often preferred by some as the style tends to last longer although some blessed heads manage to achieve long term protective styles with their own hair. This will depend of course on the length and volume of the actual hair and the finished look desired.
Awesome twist out for a low manipulation hairstyle
Protective styling can go a long way in reducing the chances of hair breakage and hair thinning such that if you are on a hair growth journey, it may be beneficial to include some protective styling to your regimen.
What do you think? Is protective styling necessary on not?
It has been long since I updated you on my current regimen which has since changed from what I used to do back in 2014. As I learn my hair more and more and as my lifestyle changes, I tweak things as I go along so that my regimen suits my lifestyle and I do not end up neglecting my hair. I have quite a heavy schedule right now and while I like the MHM, my lifestyle does not allow for such because of time constraints. So I have come up with a routine that is kind to my hair while being done in the shortest possible time. Picking some things from the MHM and making it work for me though I minimise the gel styling as this gives me more single strand knots than I can manage.
One of the challenges of natural hair is detangling in a very efficient way such that you do not lose much hair from breakage. Removing shed hairs and knots should be the only outcome. However, this is easier said than done. Techniques are invented and tested to make the detangling process as less traumatic as possible. As always, no two heads are the same and what works for someone may not exactly work for you but may still give you an idea on how to do it when working on your own hair. So, in the video below, I show you how I finger detangle my hair especially after removing a protective style. This is when there are more shed hairs than normal and the hair tends to lock together. They say our strands love each other so much such that they always want to hug. And if you keep them hugging for too long, separating them may break them. So that is when we need a very good slip product that can help the separation not to be so traumatic.
Check my hand at short term protective styling on straight hair. I am not used to dealing with straight hair at all since I am always in twist outs and mini twists. Anyways, a skill can always be learnt considering I cannot really do much of twist -outs or mini twists because of my pitiful ends. Life has to move on right. I think this style came out really cute and I am proud of myself big time. Not bad for a novice. So here we go…
Big hugs to you!!
0x0
P.S this video was published some two weeks back. I just neglected to share on the blog.
As per promise, Boitumelo’s full interview below.This is a follow up post from this one. Enjoy and please comment, like and show love.
What’s your name and where are you from?
My name is Ntswaki Mrouledi, aka Boitumelo. I’m from Randfontein (Gauteng) but now resides in Potchefstroom (NW).
What is your hair type? eg. 3c, 4a, 4b, 4c etc.
My hair type is 4c. It is very coily and hard… lol